Going Down the Slippery Slope: Stone-pavement via Hatajuku on the 8 Miles Road of Hakone 箱根八里

Say, you ride a commuter bus around 9:00 from Odawara Station 小田原駅 to Onshi-koen Park 恩賜公園, start walking from there, and reach to Amasake Chaya Café 甘酒茶屋. Probably, it is around 11:30-12:00, lunch time at a nice historical Café with healthy menu, and lots of toilets. Many people decide their hiking is done here and ride a bus to Hakone Yumoto Station 箱根湯本駅 of Hakone Tozan Railway 箱根登山鉄道. Now! Let’s hike from Amasake Chaya to Hakone Yumoto with 8 Miles Road. The number of tourists ahead is smaller, if not “rare”, I tell you. Anyway, the stone paved route from now is relatively less trodden. This makes maneuvering on the road becomes trickier. You may think “?” I tell you why.

From Amasake Chaya,
we go down Prefectural Road 732 a bit to find

a signpost to return to the old pavement.
 The ancient road beyond these steps runs along #732.

Basically, Hakone is the area receiving more rainfall compared with the other places in Kanagawa Prefecture. When we check the up-to-date precipitation data online, Hakone stays in the top 3 spots regularly. The forests of Hakone are the mixture of afforested coniferous ever-greens and broadleaved trees. As we descend, we move to climate warmer and kinder to evergreen hardwoods. Inevitably, the stone-paved route in the forest receives less sun light and humid. If you’re interested in mosses and mushrooms, it’s an exciting place. But, when we plan to pick up the pace of walking, the condition is hazardous for hikers with uneven stones covered with mosses and continuously falling leaves. (Do you know evergreens shed their old leaves year-round?) I tell you, especially from Amasake Chaya, 8 Miles Road of Hakone is very SLIPPERY!

The paved way in a forest

Worse. The road is paved with hard-stone and runs on the precipitous slope of Hakone. If we fail to secure safe landing when we fall, there is a high possibility of suffering severe injury, like broken bones or concussion. Do you remember the photo last week, even before reaching to Amasake Chaya we avoided walk on the center of the paved road? That’s because we felt our knees tired and wanted to lessen the impact of hopping from one stone to another that looked safer. The sides of the paved route keep some ground soil so that it was gentler for foot of long-distance hikers … and the trekking road will be destroyed further because of our stamping … We know the environmental impact of our deeds. So, sorry, but our instinct for self-preservation wins. Now from Amasake Chaya, the number of hikers is smaller, and the space the side of the paved road, created by hikers, is narrower. And we’ve already descended along the stone-tiled route for about 3 hours. We continue 2-3 hours more of this, but harsher condition with hazardous moss-covered stones. You see my point? That’s why it’s so important to choose your shoes for this paved hiking course! I’ve witnessed many hikers before me over there slipped and had hard time to recover from the ground to proceed.

Please don’t get fooled by its “flat” surface …

8 Miles Road itself goes along the Prefectural Road #732. #732 winds quickly for cars to proceed steep slopes of Hakone. Compared to this, 8 Miles Road is for walkers continuing (relatively) straight. We often have to cross #732 and search for petit entrances in another side for 8 Miles Road to proceed. The Prefectural Road is a commuter road used frequently, if not congested, by cars. In this regard, we don’t have to worry too much getting lost. Occasionally we enjoy open mountain scenery of Hakone, of ancient and new volcanos, and Sagami Bay. During autumn, it’s so beautiful with colored slopes over there in yellow, red and green with blue Pacific Ocean ... Although we can here cars are coming next to us, the route is calm and serene in general. The atmosphere compensates our concentration on the moss-covered perilous stones …

Another side after crossing #732 could be some steps like this.
 Just keep on going,
 and soon we return to the 17^th century pavement.

Old and new remnants of massive volcanic eruptions in Hakone,
 seen from the 8 Miles Road.

From Amasake Chaya, the local community called Hatajuku 畑宿 built houses here and there along #732. This is a historical community existing along 8 Miles Road of Hakone. At the beginning of Tokugawa Shogunate 徳川幕府 of the 17th century, theirs was a village of deep mountain where exhausted travelers asked some rest (and toilets!). 100 or so years later, they had cafés where the procession of feudal lords took rest and enjoyed elaborated mountain gardens. They even had (unofficial) brothels. According to one popular TV travelogue named “Bra-Tamori ブラタモリ” aired in October 2018, the Shogunate treated the villagers of Hatajuku well as they were informants watching for suspicious movement in and out of Edo (Tokyo) via Hakone. A-ha. The community of spies, then. In the 21st Century the place is famous as a hamlet of artisans for Hakone Yosegi-zaiku 箱根寄せ木細工.

Ichiri-zuka 一里塚 in Hatajuku.
 “Ichiri-zuka” is a signpost = “Zuka”
 built by Tokugawa Shogunate
 to mark “Ichi-ri” = 3.9km from the previous “Zuka.”
 This is the 23^rd Ichiri-zuka from
   the beginning of Tokaido 東海道,
  Nihonbashi Bridge of Edo (Tokyo) 江戸日本橋
 (the bridge in front of the BOJ).
 This Ichiri-zuka was rebuilt in 2012
 after archeological study of the place.
 Once, such facility was used for travelers
 having a short break under the shade of big tree.

Hatajuku community in 2020

They have public toilets.

It was in the late 18th century when an artisan of Hatajuku named Ishikawa Jin’bei 石川仁兵衛 developed the technique to create craft objects, like jewelry boxes, plates, etc. using the ubiquitous trees in Hakone. I think it now becomes standard souvenirs for tourists to Hakone from all over the world. Many crafters of Yosegi-zaiku resides in Hatajuku community still. Hatajuku has museums and ateliers where we can learn the traditional crafts on hand and find souvenirs. You can decide to spend the rest of your day here and take bus to Hakone Yumoto for returning downtown Megalopolis (; the last bus will be at 20:41. Time table, here).

My Yosegi-zaiku box.
 I have it since I was a kindergartener …
 Maybe somebody gave it to me …

One of such shops to experience Yosegi woodcraft in Hatajuku

The ancient road continues between gardens probably of 200-300 years old …

From Hatajuku Bus Stop, the paved-road goes along with not only Prefectural Road #732, but also National Route 1. The historical road runs also with Sukumo-gawa River 須雲川. The level of slipperiness goes on strong. It continues for about half an hour, and the stone pavement finally unites with Prefectural Road 732 at Sukumo-gawa Bridge. From here to Hakone Yumoto Station, we walk #732, so please be careful of cars. Many hot spring inns start to appear. Area-wise, this is already the tourists’ spot of Hakone Yumoto 箱根湯本. Some spas allow day-trippers to enjoy short time stay. Some requires reservation in advance. To choose one, please refer here. Spa could be a nice conclusion for historical hiking in Hakone. Hakone Yumoto community has its own parks and forests, like I’ve visited for mushroom the other day. In future, I’ll report my another adventure in Hakone Yumoto. 😀

The paved road goes along Sukumo-gawa River.

The toilet near Sukumo-gawa Bridge.
 This is the end of the ancient road.
 From here we, walk #732.

And in no time,
 we enter the present-day housing area of Hakone Yumoto.

Hakone Yumoto Station seen from near Hakone Town Hall.
 The end of our hiking today!

Oh, by the way, for 8 Miles Road of Hakone = Hakone Hachi-ri, “Hachi-ri 八里 = 8-ri” is supposed to be “1-ri * 8 = 3.9 km * 8 = about 32 km,” if we convert the unit in Shogunate official metrics. Our 8 Miles Road is not at all 32km. In classic Japanese language, “ri” often used for “long distance.” The historical road nowadays is about 8 miles that I found very convenient to translate “Hakone Hachi-ri 箱根八里” into English “8 Miles Road.” It seems to me, there are several explanation about the moniker “Hakone Hachi-ri.” The most legal one says the start of the road is Hakone Yumoto, and the end is Mishima 三島 in Shizuoka Prefecture 静岡県, whose distance is about 32km. The ancient route from Hakone Checking Station (箱根関所 roughly, our starting point for this hiking) to Mishima is none other than present day National Route 1, remodeled by modern civil engineering and always busy with lots of cars. Please pick your choice of the beginning / the end of the historical “Hakone Hachi-ri.” Cars? On foot?

Cute Himalayan spindles (Enonymus hamiltonianus) in Hakone.
 This makes white parts of Hakone Yosegi-zaiku …

If you find environmental issues in Hakone, please make a contact with Hakone Visitor Center, Ministry of Environment of Japan.

164 Motohakone, Hakone-machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa 250-0522
Phone: +81-460-84-9981
FAX: +81-460-84-5721
Email: hakone-vc@kanagawa.email.ne.jp
http://hakonevc.sunnyday.jp/shizenjyouhou/gazou/englishindex.html

The Most Precipitous in Japan: introduction for hiking “8 Miles Road of Hakone 箱根八里”

Hakone 箱根, one of the best-known tourists’ destinations in Japan, is a historical place. It has reputation such as “the most precipitous in Japan” … I doubt this claim, though … Anyway! still now, when people travel between the West, i.e. Nara 奈良, Kyoto 京都, and Osaka 大阪, and the East, i.e. Kamakura 鎌倉 and Edo 江戸 (Tokyo), Hakone is THE choking point for land route. The area is made of steep cliffs and torrents. The passable routes are limited. Until 802 AD, it even had a popular detour which went around Hakone. The bypass was roughly the same road of present-day Route 246 from Gotemba City 御殿場市 to Matsuda Town 松田町 (the gateway to Yadoriki Forest やどりき水源林) via Ashigara Pass 足柄峠 (; my post on August 4, 2017). Then in the first week of 802, Mt. Fuji erupted and closed the Ashigara Pass. People were forced to use mountainous Hakone Route.

The locational composition of Hakone and Mt. Fuji is like this.
 It’s not at all near …
 This photo was taken on the peak of Mt. Yagura 矢倉岳, near Ashigara Pass.

Since then, there were many records depicting how hard to cross Hakone area (for example, this one). When Tokugawa Ieyasu 徳川家康, the founder of Tokugawa Shogunate Government 江戸幕府, decided in 1600 to make Edo the center of Japanese political system, Hakone offered a clever strategic option to build Fortress Tokyo. As the place is so precipitous, there were very few people ventured alternative routes in Hakone. i.e. The government could control almost perfectly the traffic between the East and the West of Japan at Hakone. It was the main gate to Edo. To defend Tokyo from western enemy attacks via the main route, the idea is perfect, isn’t it? Tokugawa Ieyasu constructed a well-crafted road through the mountainous Hakone suitable for large entourages of delegations sent by the Emperor in Kyoto, or by the King of Joseon Dynasty from Korean Peninsula. This mountain road was named “Hakone 8 Ri 箱根八里” aka “8 Miles Road of Hakone” starting from Hakone Yumoto 箱根湯本 to Lake Ashinoko 芦ノ湖. Ieyasu then located a huge check point called Hakone Checking Station 箱根関所 on the south shore of Lake Ashinoko where 8 Miles Road ends and departs to the next region which was the area for modern Shizuoka Prefecture 静岡県.

The map of 8 Miles Road of Hakone, shown near Lake Ashinoko

Today, Hakone Checking Station is a huge tourist attraction that is an amalgam of history museum and a theme park. Introducing the place will be saved for another occasion … Today, and in the next 2 posts, I tell you my adventure along the 8 Miles Road of Hakone. Yes. The road Tokugawa Ieyasu prepared has largely preserved although it is cut in numerous times by Prefectural Road 732 for cars. The marvel of civil engineering for the 17th century Japan. The ancient route becomes a popular hiking road for the 21st century. Exactly speaking, 8 Miles Road starts from Hakone Yumoto (; my post on ), proceeds through the forest almost in parallel to Route 1 until old Hatajuku Town 畑宿, then crisscrosses with Road 732 to historical Amazake-Jaya Café 甘酒茶屋, and finally goes down to Lake Ashinoko via Kampher-Barney Monument. From there to the Checking Station the road runs along the popular circle road of Lake Ashinoko.

When the 8 Miles Road meets with Lake Ashinoko,
 at the First Torii 一の鳥居 of Hakone Shrine 箱根神社,
 we find these tiny stupas and statues of Buddha
 on both sides of the Circle Lake Road.
 The place is called Sai-no-Kawara 賽の河原
where numerous travelers to Hakone some 1000 to 150 years ago
 built these objects of worship for their peace of mind.
 It had once far more stupas,
 but economic development destroyed so many.
 The place is now designated as a Historic Site by Hakone Town.

When you walk the route in this way, it is almost “one way up” … Hmmmmm, it would be an educational experience to know how hard it was to pass Hakone until some 150 years ago … But, in this age of the 21st Century, let’s use a modern tool called “commuter bus services.” We go Lake Ashinoko first, then follow the path from there to Hakone Yumoto. Yeah, it’s almost “one way down.” Even though, it’s really a day hike. I found going-down is enough to know the difficulty in Hakone on foot or horse-ride if you’re skilled enough perhaps at the level of professional jockey or Olympians … Next week, I start from how to reach Lake Ashinoko by commuter bus. Please stay tuned. 😄 Oh, just one reminder. Hakone is a National Park of Japan. Environmental restrictions are harder than for the other parts of Kanagawa Prefecture. We must behave there. Wow.

If you find environmental issues in Hakone, please make a contact with Hakone Visitor Center, Ministry of Environment of Japan.

164 Motohakone, Hakone-machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa 250-0522
Phone: +81-460-84-9981
FAX: +81-460-84-5721
Email: hakone-vc@kanagawa.email.ne.jp
http://hakonevc.sunnyday.jp/shizenjyouhou/gazou/englishindex.html

Mushrooms in a sanctuary: studying fungi in the forest of Hakone Soun-ji Temple 箱根早雲公園

Hakone is a resort town. Its gateway is Hakone Yumoto community箱根湯本 that has the terminal train station, Hakone-yumoto, for a direct Odakyu service from Shinjuku. The place has lots of spas, restaurants, souvenir shops, et al. Town Hall of Hakone is also there. The area has been for more than millennium an important base for travelers passing Hakone mountains. As such, the Hojo Clan 北条氏 for the Lord of Odawara Castle built in 1521 their family temple there. It is Soun-ji Temple 早雲寺 of zen school. If it is a normal year, their treasures, including a National Treasures and several National Important Cultural Properties, will be shown for public in early November. In 2020, COVID-19 deprives such festivals from us. Though, I happened to have a chance to enter the forest of the Temple recently. It was for mushrooms.

Hakone Yumoto Station

To Sounji, please cross the Haya River from the Station.

The other side of the river is Hakone Yumoto Fujiya Hotel.
 Please go round the hotel to the direction of Hakone Town Hall.

Soon, we meet the Town Hall.

This is a tricky part.
 Please find steps next to the main entrance for the Town Hall.
 It’s a shortcut to Soun-ji Temple.

This signpost will appear soon.
Follow the direction until …

Turn right here and go straight to the Temple.

Soun-ji Temple on our right.
 It’s their back which is a parking for the staff.

Soun-ji Temple, Main Entrance

Japanese old temples and shrines had a vast territory before. In the 21^st century, not many has kept their property in the form of former glory. Still, some have maintained forest that secludes sanctuary from the daily humdrum. It is called Jisha-rin寺社林, the forest of temple and/or shrine. As Japanese Shintoism is animism that recognizes deity in every part of nature, heavy human intervention to a shrine’s forest is sacrilegious, at least to some extent, even in the 21^st century. For Japanese Buddhist temples, imported Mahayana Buddhism incorporated the “native feeling” of Shintoism, and often preach “the existence of Buddha in all the tiny creatures of forest of mandala.” Temple forest is also a sort of refuge from modern destructions. The forest of Soun-ji Temple is one of such places. It certainly has trekking paths for locals to visit the temple. But the intervention is kept minimum. No café, or vending machines for drinks in this tourists-heavy neighbors. Not only that, almost 2/3 of the forest is off limit since 1978. Kanagawa Prefecture designated the forest as Natural Monument for its ancient vegetation, and Euterpnosia chibensis, a tiny cicada that is on the Red Book for endangered species in Kanagawa. The insect makes the forest of Soun-ji their home, the only home for them in Kanagawa.

A map for the forest of Soun-ji Temple.

This is the road coming from Fujiya Hotel.
 This is oneway route and no detour is allowed;
 could you see the yellow tapes there?

The highest point of the route has this gazebo.

The main entrance to the forest itself is basically locked.

Even though, researches and education in the forest are allowed with permit. One day this fall, I joined an educational expedition to the forest of Soun-ji Temple, organized by Prefectural Museum of Natural History. It was to learn and hunt mushrooms in forest. The place is about 130m ASL, populated by large broad-leaved trees including many Quercus salicina. Hakone is a place of lots of rain. The floor of minimum disturbance in humid broad-leaved forest is a good place for fungi. Dr. Takamichi Orihara for the Museum led us to enter such an interesting place to observe mushrooms.

This is an “almost” natural forest of Soun-ji Temple.

Rich forest floor.
The off-limit area maintains the road constructed before 1978.

According to Dr. Orihara, as of 2014, the estimated number of fungi species we have on the planet is roughly 6 million. Out of these, the identified fungi are about 140 thousand. So, we don’t know which is which for the remaining 98% on earth. Corollary: we can encounter “novel species” VERY easily when we do field research for mushrooms. “Er, please do not trust reference books. Nowadays, DNA testing is casually negating the identification of a 2015 book to rewrite classification. We are in very exciting time to study fungi. You may be recorded as a first identifier for a new species and remembered in a history!” I also learned the difference between shiitake mushroom and truffle is like the relationship between humans and sea urchin, taxonomy-wise. Wooooooooow. The spongy forest floor of Soun-ji has several endemic fungi found only in Kanagawa, or Hakone. Many of us found Tylopilus fuligineoviolaceus that is almost endemic in Kanagawa. Elegant white of Amanita verna is true to its nickname, “Killing Angel.” It was a quiet, but exciting hunting in a forest of drizzled rain. The world of fungi is really mesmerizing ...

Lots of mushrooms!

These white something is fungi.
 When it accumulates enough energy
 to have a large sexual organ,
 the place sprouts mushrooms.

Hi there.

These were what we collected in less than one hour.

I have heard several years ago, in Niiharu Citizen Forest 新治市民の森, Calvatia nipponica sprouted. Then-chairperson of Niiharu Lovers, Mr. Heihachi Nakamaru, became suddenly busy to attend the news reporters and scholars to introduce the mushroom.  Mr. Nakamaru is now 94 years old, spending his day with a wheelchair in his house next to Niiharu Forest. He fondly remembers that fuss for giant mushrooms, and giggles when he talks the story. There was a young businessman who heard the news and visited Niiharu Forest to see gigantic white balls of Calvatia nipponica. He was shocked. He became almost obsessed to study the world of fungi when he’s off from his office. He is now the leader of Yokohama branch for Kanagawa Fungi Society. He and his group are having regular study meetings for mushrooms in Niiharu Forest. He’s collaborating with Dr. Orihara and Prefectural Museum for fungi research. You see? There is something magical in mushrooms. It can change somebody’s life … 

Fly Agaric (Amanita muscaria) in Niiharu

If you find environmental issues in Kanagawa Prefecture, please make a contact with Kanagawa Natural Environment Conservation Center 神奈川県自然環境保全センター

657 Nanasawa, Atsugi City, 243-0121
〒243－0121　厚木市七沢657
Phone: 046-248-0323

You can send an enquiry to them by clicking the bottom line of their homepage at http://www.pref.kanagawa.jp/div/1644/