The passage we’ve been through now was named (remember?) Komine-Okanenodai-O’horikiri-Higashibori 小峯御鐘ノ台大堀切東堀. “Komine-Okanenodai” is name of a hill, ASL 123.8m, directly continues from Hakone Mountains and ends more or less at the place where the Castle Tower stands now. “O’horikiri” means the “grand mort and wall system.” i.e. Komine-Okanenodai-O’horikiri was one of the most important defense lines for the Castle which was expected to fend off the advancement of enemies from the west. The last word, “Higashibori” means “East Mort.” This O’horikiri mort and wall system had three parts. One is the East Mort, and the others are Nakabori 中堀 = the Central Mort and Nishibori 西堀 = the West Mort. Actually, the present-day Castle Tower was defined as such in the 17th century, after the original builder of Odawara Castle and Sogame defense lines, (Go-)Hojoh Clan 後北条, was annihilated in 1590 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi 豊臣秀吉. The original was, needless to say, demolished completely by the winner and we can excavate the remnants in and around Sogame defense line. Such archeological research tells us the central part of Odawara Castle was developed in and around now-the campus of Odawara Highschool. The point we turned right after walking Higashibori was more or less the edge of the Third (= the outermost) Bailey of the original castle. With this finding, the archeologists for Odawara Castle concluded Higashibori was originally constructed to protect the Third Bailey. Then as they fortified the defense line, the other two parts, Nakabori and Nishibori, were built. These three morts configure as a team Odawara Sogamae defense line.
From the T-crossing, we proceed the paved road to the north-east, where on our left is another steep slope with occasional terraces, and our right is peaceful rural scenery. The right side was where the original Odawara Castle building complex spread out towards the sea, so the name of township Shiroyama 城山 = Castle Hill. We soon meet with an entrance of Nishibori. A gigantic rock which is a remnant of defending wall was abandoned in a middle of small field on our left with exhibition panel provided by the City of Odawara. Our route on the paved road becomes more and more peaceful strolling path. The main field of Odawara Boy Scout Troop 2 comes in our view of the right. I noticed the naming of the place after entering this paved route becomes sporadic at best. The paved route runs through a wide ridge of a hill, which was probably constructed as such 500 years ago. The edge of a ridge is unnaturally piled up ground, afforested by taller cedars on the top. Then the inside near the road has lots of azaleas, cherries, et al of beautiful flowering trees. Though now we cannot call the land design “garden forest,” the feel of the area is definitely man-made.
Higashibori.
Hmmmm … the entire scenery here looks warped … |
From the T-crossing, we proceed the paved road to the north-east, where on our left is another steep slope with occasional terraces, and our right is peaceful rural scenery. The right side was where the original Odawara Castle building complex spread out towards the sea, so the name of township Shiroyama 城山 = Castle Hill. We soon meet with an entrance of Nishibori. A gigantic rock which is a remnant of defending wall was abandoned in a middle of small field on our left with exhibition panel provided by the City of Odawara. Our route on the paved road becomes more and more peaceful strolling path. The main field of Odawara Boy Scout Troop 2 comes in our view of the right. I noticed the naming of the place after entering this paved route becomes sporadic at best. The paved route runs through a wide ridge of a hill, which was probably constructed as such 500 years ago. The edge of a ridge is unnaturally piled up ground, afforested by taller cedars on the top. Then the inside near the road has lots of azaleas, cherries, et al of beautiful flowering trees. Though now we cannot call the land design “garden forest,” the feel of the area is definitely man-made.
Entrance
to Nishibori. The remnants here are not much as Higashibori. |
On our
right is where the original Odawara Castle Complex was. |
Former Odawara Castle is, now, Summer
grasses— Basho
芭蕉 |
We walked our route instructed by a well-learned guide for Sogame, and he said “Scholars could not find the name of this section. We simply call the place ‘greenery.’” The ridge here now faces to Ashigara Pass 足柄峠 direction from the foothills of Mt. Fuji. When Hojo Clan assumed another warlord of Takeda Clan 武田氏 in Kofu 甲府 coming in, I guess this was the place to be fortified. Before Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Takeda Clan was THE enemy #1 for Odawara’s Hojo for about a century … (; my post on July 28, 2017). No name here? … Perhaps, the place was one of the top-secret area. Maybe only those in-the-know understood the structure and everything of this point. Even the name of the place was secret …
Have
you noticed this farmland sloping down to us, and the end of it has suspiciously intentional planting by somebody. This place has no name. |
It’s
another remnant of mort and wall system, called Yamanokami Horikiri. Sogame structure has such smaller defense constructions in addition to the 3 main morts and walls. |
On our
left is another precipitous slope with terraces. Natural mort and wall system modified by humans, that was. |
And
over there to the direction of sea begins with housings … |
Such a mysterious forest soon becomes another ordinary suburbia of rows of houses. We leisurely go down to the crossing of Shiroyama Traffic Light 城山交差点. From there, we proceed to the Castle Tower which we can see over there. It’s about rapid descending of 15 or so minutes from the crossing to the wide overpass to JR Tokaido Line. When we stand at the Aohashi Traffic Light Crossing 青橋交差点 just before entering the Castle Park, please turn your head opposite the Castle Tower. We can see a small forest and rows of houses. This was the place where the main structure of the old Odawara Castle stood. I imagine the entire hill (and the place we stand now on the flyover above the railway system) was once a deep “strategically maintained” forest. Castle structures must have poked their roof out of forest canopy … Now it is houses of ordinary people, with a little bit of green. It should be a good thing we don’t have to think about defense matters, and can bulldoze forest freely for housing development …
Shiroyama Crossing |
Castle Tower is over there. |
The
opposite side of the Castle Tower … too ordinary scenery now. |
The current historical buildings of Odawara Castle was formulated in the 17th century when Tokugawa Shogunate started governing Japan. When Tokugawa Ieyasu entered Edo, aka Tokyo, after the demise of Hojo Clan in 1590, he was given a role to oversee the entire Kanto Region from Hideyoshi, then a far far far away rural place from the eyes of Kyoto and Osaka people. Ieyasu brought his loyal subordinate clan, Okubo Clan, from Nagoya to look after the former territory of Odawara Castle. During the 17th century, several court politics surrounded the occupiers of Odawara Castle. It made the governor of the place change several times. Okubo Clan finally returned to Odawara in 1686. The family governed the area until the Tokugawa Shogunate collapsed and the new Meiji Government introduced the current prefectural system in 1871. Daikyuji Temple 大久寺 we passed at the beginning of today’s walk is the family temple of Okubo Clan. The reason why the inhabitants of Odawara Castle got caught up in palace politics in Tokyo was its location of strategic importance. Odawara sits at the foot of Hakone Mountains and next to the foothill of Mt. Fuji. If an enemy force came up from the west to Edo, Odawara could be the last large defense line. So, the Shogunate Government appointed the family of Councilor class for Shogunate Government to administer the area. As it sits in the area for the epicenters of earthquakes and an eruption of Mt. Fuji, Odawara Castle Tower (of Tokugawa Era) was destroyed twice, 1703 and 1782, by natural disasters. Every time, Shogunate government did not spare a dime to rebuild it. This was the only castle tower in Japan with such privilege. Even the tower of Edo Castle was not rebuilt after it suffered the great Edo Fire of 1657.
At the time when Aril 1868 Shogunate surrendered to Meiji Government, Odawara did nothing to stop the advancement of new forces from the west. That certainly made the job far easier for the new comer ... And it may tell something not only about the military importance of Odawara. When new Meiji Government introduced prefectural system in Japan, the role of any castle in Japan was ended, except for Edo Castle as a new residence for the Emperor, i.e. the Imperial Palace now. The Odawara Castle was first directly owned by Meiji Government. They destroyed in 1870 the castle tower which did not have any modern use for warfare but ate tons of money for maintenance. The former resident of Odawara Castle, now Viscount Okubo, was allowed to buy up the land for his former castle in 1890. Alas, he was not so rich anymore, and sold off his property to anybody with money. Among them was PM Yamagata (; my post on June 1, 2025). Forests were gone.
Inside the Castle Park contains a playpark for kids. |
BUT. In 1960, people rebuilt the Castle Tower as it was remembered in Edo era for “treasuring history.” The place became one of the tourists’ attractions for Kanagawa Prefecture, but somehow overlooked. Once, I heard murmurs of people for the townhall of Odawara, like, “If they have time to stop by Odawara, they came to the Castle by taxi, visit there about an hour, and gone to Hakone.” In 2021, the people and the City of Odawara “renovated” Odawara Castle, because “The 1960 seismic resistance requirements are inadequate.” The result is this beautiful Odawara Castle we can visit today. The point is, the inside of the castle was NOT a replica of Tokugawa Era. People excavated records of Sogame Era castle, and reproduced the defense system of 500 years ago (sans lethal parts). To be sure, the crest of Odawara Castle (and the City of Odawara) is not of Okubo Clan, or of Tokugawa for that matter. It’s Tri-Scale 三つ鱗 of Hojo Clan, the family perished 500 years ago. People of Odawara remember them proudly with Sogame Forests of defense systems. Now cherry blossoms of Odawara Castle are called one of the 100 best cherry blossoms in Japan. May peace on earth.
Everybody loves cherry blossoms. |
For enquires about sightseeing in Odawara City,
General Incorporated Association, Odawara Tourism
一般社団法人 小田原市観光協会
250-0042 350-1, Hagikubo, Odawara City
〒250-0042 小田原市荻窪350番地の1 小田原合同庁舎内2階
TEL:0465-20-4192
〒250-0042 小田原市荻窪350番地の1 小田原合同庁舎内2階
TEL:0465-20-4192
FAX:0465-20-4194