Friday, November 30, 2018

A Forest where once girls gathered fallen leaves (perhaps): Iiyama Kan’non Hiking Course 飯山観音ハイキングコース



Out of Metropolitan area, i.e. Yokohama, Kawasaki, Fujisawa, Kamakura, … Kanagawa Prefecture still has places where we can imagine an intimate life between forest and agricultural villages of yesteryears. True, many of them are now simply bed towns of Tokyo with lots of detached houses and condos. Even though, going through such newly developed areas, we find a large, old, but often dilapidated, temple with forest and mountain behind. It indicates the area was once a thriving agricultural community where the forest and a mountain attached to the temple provided firewood and the other seasonal bounties, in addition to spiritual center, for the community. A hiking course in the forest surrounding Iiyama Kan’non Temple 飯山観音 in Atsugi City 厚木市 is one of such places. It is actually a popular destination for local boy and girl scouts. Let’s go there this week! (Map is here.)


Geranimun thunbergii found in today’s itinerary.
 It’s an ingredient for popular folk medicine to stomach ailments.
 We can find lots of them today, i.e.,
 this was the place where people utilized
 the givings from the forest.


Iiyama Kan’non area is secretly famous among spa lovers in Tokyo metropolitan area. You take Tomei Express Way and exit from Atsugi IC. In 20 minutes’ time, your car arrives at Iiyama On’sen (Iiyama Spa 飯山温泉) where a couple of inns provides spa resort with alkaline hot spring. (The choices for inns can be referred here.) If you prefer, you can plan today’s itinerary to end at Iiyama Kan’non and have a rest at spa. Hmmmm … I’m not sure if kids are happy for this arrangement. So, I stick to family friendly plan, and start from Iiyama Kan’non Bus Stop 飯山観音前. To go there, take a commuter bus (time table, here) from #5 bus stop in the plaza of the North Exit of Odakyu Hon’atsugi Station 小田急本厚木駅. Majority services from #5 stop go to Iiyama Kan’non Bus Stop, but you’d better ask the driver before your ride if they go there. The service first passes a standard residential area which gradually changes scenery with random mix of new houses and old farms. It’s a typical sign of Metropolitan Tokyo where a suburban development is spreading to former rural communities. In 20 minutes or so, we arrive at Iiyama Kan’non Bus Stop where a bright red gate says “Welcome! This is the town of Tatsukura Shrine 龍蔵神社, Iiyama Kan’non Temple 飯山観音, and Kongohji Temple 金剛寺.” Let’s pass the gate and immediately turn right. Go straight for a couple of minutes and on our right is a farm land where gorgeous chrysanthemums are smiling during autumn. On our left is Kongohji Temple.


Iiyama Kan’non Bus Stop
Please pass this gate.
 It’s very obvious land mark of the area.
Let’s take this direction.
Beautiful chrysanthemums
Go straight to Kongohji Temple 金剛寺.


Legend says Kongohji Temple was established in AD 807 by Kukai 空海, a superstar monk of Japanese early Buddhism. In a historical chronicle Azuma Kagami 吾妻鏡 which depicts the civil war of the 12th century, there is a record of 1182 in which monks of the temple petitioned to the government. The place was the center of spiritual life of the village at that time. The principal image of Kongohji is Amitabha 木造阿弥陀如来坐像 which is a wood sculpture in a typical 11th century’s style. It is designated as an important cultural property of Japan 重要文化財. All sounds impressive, isn’t it? So, you have to go there and see it by yourself. The temple hall where Amitabha is situated stands, I would say, slanting. Record says the institution was OK till the 14th century. Then, another civil war happened and the decline of the establishment started. In the 16th century, Tokugawa Ieyasu 徳川家康 in Edo (Tokyo) recognized its existence and allowed to have small vegetable plots around it, which is the legal basis of its current situation. In early November, in front of the temple are chrysanthemums and commercial vegetable fields, which indicates until the hall began tilting the place was a typical village temple serving for the thriving farmers nearby. We enter the very old-looking gate of the temple, pass the hall of Amitabha, and take a trekking path on the left which goes through the temple’s community cemetery. The atmosphere of village still remains as it was some 100 or more years ago …


The temple hall of Kongohji.
 The institution underwent renovation when
 Tokugawa Ieyasu allowed it to have land in the 16th century.
 So, I guess the structure was built at that time.
This way, please.
The route becomes steps leading us to 
A small temple cemetery.


After the cemetery, we go through for about 10 minutes a typical Satoyama forest, a mixture of afforested conifers on the right, and broad leaved spring-flowering trees on the left. I guess kids of yesteryears took daily excursion here after their school … Before long we enter a wide open space with a well-kept public toilet and parking spaces. It’s the territory of Iiyama Kan’non Temple, aka Chokokuji Temple 長谷寺. Actually, if we go straight with the paved road from the big red gate next to the bus stop, we can come here straight, after passing Tatsukura Shrine. The founding legend of the establishment is even older: it is said that Gyoki 行基, another superstar monk, established the place in 725. In 988, the temple was designated #6 temple for Avalokitesvara pilgrimage of Kanto region 坂東33観音霊場. Ever since, the place has been visited by lots of pilgrims, and for the 21st century, parking is the MUST for such premises … got it? The present buildings for the sanctuary were built in the 18th century whose condition tells us the temple is apparently better off than Kongohji Temple we have visited. The power of pilgrimage tourism. The bell of this temple has an inscription of the year 1442 which explains why this bell became the property of the temple. It also explains how people raised the fund to manufacture the bell. The place was popular then certainly. The trees surrounding the sanctuary are tall and large. It is a typical feature of precinct forest of Japan where people have seen something spiritual in the forest of a religious establishment. People’s will has made the trees very old and large ...


From Kongohji Temple, on the left is an orchard.
 Let’s go straight,
a bit of climbing, and then,
An open space for Iiyama Kan’non.
This is the toilet.
 In today’s itinerary, this is the last toilet
 before we arrive at Nanasawa Park.
 Please use your chance wisely.
From the toilet, we go up a little to …
The sanctuary of Iiyama Temple.
The bell.
 The direction to strike a bell is toward the mountain always.
 The sound should bounce back to …
human community spreading
 at the foot of the mountain where a temple locates.
 The design of the bell house here is a sort of textbook example.
The main hall of Iiyama Kan’non Temple.
There is a cute stone statue of Avalokitesvara,
 which has chop sticks and a rice bowl (we guess, yeah).
 “Iiyama” means “Heaped rice = abundance.”
 Bon appetit!
Forest of very-temple


From the back of the temple hall, there is a trekking road goes up to the top of Mt. Hakusan (ASL 283.8m). Soon we meet three-forked crossing. On the right is Otoko-zaka 男坂, and on the left is On’na-zaka 女坂. Both lead us to the peak. Otoko-zaka (; direct translation, “Male slope”) is shorter but with a bit steeper slope. On’na-zaka (“Female slope”) is longer but a gentler slope. (Oh by the way, it’s not saying about male and female expected life years here!) Today, we take easier path, so enter On’na-zaka. Almost immediately, there is a meshed fence and a gate to keep deer out of the temple forest. Also, from about this point, we can find posters saying “Beware of monkeys.” Hmmm. Large trees of the sanctuary spread their large boughs beyond the wired enclosure … looks ideal corridor for tree-top dwellers to move around. Such is human intelligence … After this site, the vegetation of the forest becomes far more natural than the temple precinct we’ve passed. As usual in Kanagawa Prefecture, much acreage is covered by afforested coniferous trees, but the entire area also preserves broad-leaved trees that were spared from deforestation some 100 years ago for commercial forestry. We have encountered traces of mountain persimmons whose fruits were smaller but sweet as the commercial version. No fruit was left, though. Monkeys! The road is calm and pleasant. After a steep but brief climb, we reach to the top of Mt. Hakusan, in about an hour from the Temple. Next to the peak of Mt. Hakusan is an observatory. To the west, we can admire the entire Mt. Oyama just next to us. To the east is Kanto Plane. Weather permitting, we can recognize Tokyo Skytree over the horizon.


Three-forked crossing
A bunny welcomes us at the entrance of On’na-zaka.
Anti-deer gate.
 Please close it securely once you enter.
But we are sure they are nothing for clever monkeys.
A trekking road now
The bunny continues to guide us to the top.
No fruit here …
Botrychium ternatum.
 It looks like somebody planted them for garden
 … it’s wild, of course.
The observatory at the top of Mt. Hakusan
We could not see Tokyo Skytree!


From the observatory, let’s go down to Nanasawa Forest Park 七沢森林公園. The top of the mountain is a crossing of three-forked road: from On’na-zaka we came, from Otoko-zaka, and to Nanasawa Park in the direction of Mt. Oyama in front of us. The basic vegetation and the scenery we enter now is the same as we came from Iiyama Kan’non Temple. The difference is, this side is continuous ups and downs going through the ridgeway descending to Nanasawa Town. This is the forest sandwiched by Iiyama Spa Town and Nanasawa Town that is another and bigger spa town of Atsugi City. I guess both communities, agricultural villages of yesteryears, used the ridgeway forest as a provider of many things … gathering firewood, searching for materials to charcoal baking and to tools for daily usage, harvesting medicinal herbs and wild sweet fruits, persimmons included … School-aged girls came here after school every fall for collecting fallen leaves that could be good tinder for warming houses coming winter. In the 21st century, such usages have gone. The trees, like Quercus acutissima and Quercus serrata, are a way too large. They are good to bake charcoals, and before once in 12-15 years coppicing was widely done. It was the way to maintain healthy forest. Not so large deciduous trees allowed enough sun light to forest floors. It would then encourage smaller plants to thrive. Many of such species were utilized for daily lives in villages. Now large trees do not allow sufficient sun to their floor. Ever-green shade trees, such as Aucuba japonica, have started to dominate the beneath … That’s a landscape we should think about carefully …


Descending is steep first.
 From here to Junrei Pass (
巡礼峠 Pilgrimage Pass),
 it’s a part of Kanto Fureai no Michi
 (
関東ふれあいの道・首都圏自然歩道 Metropolitan Natural Walk Way).
And so, picnic benches here and there.
Though not so steep,
 continuous ups and downs are a bit demanding.
It’s too large …


About an hour or so walk from the peak, we reach to Jun’rei Pass (巡礼峠 Pilgrimage Pass). From here, if we continue to the west to Hinata Yakushi Temple 日向薬師 (; my post for March 24, 2017 to Mt. Oyama), we follow the Pilgrimage Pass Route for Metropolitan Natural Walk Way. Though, today, let’s conclude our hike in Nanasawa Forest Park 七沢森林公園 by going straight at the 3-forked road at Jun’rei Pass. The Park is one of the prefectural parks Kanagawa Prefecture has for our community. As we enter the park, the road becomes wide and sometimes with stone paving. There also are lots of sign posts with maps. It would be easy for you to navigate to the gate of the Park where an office for park administrators locates. Nanasawa Park itself deserves independent introduction. Please stay tuned for the time I tell you my adventure in Nanasawa Forestry Park 😉 From the Forest Park to the nearest bus stop, Nanasawa On’sen Iriguchi Stop 七沢温泉入り口 (“Entrance to Nanasawa Spa”), it’s about 5 minutes’ walk. Any services from this stop (; time table is here) will bring us back to the stations for Odakyu Odawara Line 小田急小田原線, such as Hon’atsugi Station 本厚木, Aikoh-ishida Station 愛甲石田, and Isehara Station 伊勢原.


Junrei Pass
Inside the park is mainly like this.
To the gate of Nanasawa Forest Park
Nanasawa On’sen Iriguchi Bus Stop


If you find an environmental issues in Kanagawa Prefecture, please make a contact with Kanagawa Natural Environment Conservation Center 神奈川県自然環境保全センター

657 Nanasawa, Atsugi City, 243-0121 2430121 厚木市七沢657
Phone: 046-248-0323


You can send an enquiry to them by clicking the bottom line of their homepage at http://www.pref.kanagawa.jp/div/1644/



Friday, November 23, 2018

Light My Fire: fire woods in Niiharu Citizen Forest



November. Late autumn. Deciduous trees are shedding their leaves. Winter is coming. A tiny office of Lovers of Niiharu Citizen Forest 新治市民の森 uses wood stove for heating. Lovers also have Autumn and Winter festivals for kids to play in our forest. A camp fire is always very popular. And of course, charcoal baking season is approaching rapidly. So, Lovers are checking if we have enough supply of firewood for winter. As Niiharu Forest is large, we Lovers take a sort of laid-back approach for the supply of firewood. During year-round activities, we produce lots of thinned trees and pruned boughs, you see? On the other hand, the City asks us to gather woods created by forestry as much as possible in a defined area, and waste collectors sent by the municipality regularly come to pick them up there. Majority of the woods are carried to a recycle plant next to Yokohama Zoorasia, where the thinned trees of Niiharu become wood chips for mulching in the city parks and gardens. This autumn, the collectors came early November and cleared the depo rather impressively. “Heck, we don’t have enough firewood for Kid’s Day, or for winter.”


We need firewood for winter!


Luckily (or not), typhoons this September destroyed many large trees. Lovers and the City cleared them when they could threaten the safety of visitors to the Forest. The logs are still lying on the forest floor. The amount of the trees processed since September would provide enough firewood for once a week activity of Lovers? We entered in the forest to drag them out for firewood. Several tall cedar trees were broken by strong winds, and now their trunks are chopped in about 2m long with their boughs. BUT “Coniferous trees are not good. Their tissues have relatively rough texture and oily. They burn rapidly, with smoke.” “Yes, so, Naomi, collect the boughs of deciduous trees, if you can. Quercus acutissima or Quercus serrata is the best, yet we don’t have to be that picky in the end.” Roger. Coniferous trees are straight, and so their logs are simple enough to drag in the mountainous road. In contrast, deciduous trees have lots of curves and knots that could be stuck in bumps and roots of the other trees spreading over the forest floor. Tagging, lifting, tilting … dragging woods is not at all a simple activity, I tell you. That was a very good weight-lifting training!


An ideal candidate to be firewood;
 a broadleaved tree destroyed by a typhoon.
In the end we demolished this country hedge:
 it was relatively drier than newly damaged trees.


In any case, cut trees are not easy to set fire. For roughly 60 days between September and now in November, Yokohama has had rainy weather. The woods are damp and difficult to be ignited. We went in the forest of cedars to collect leaves that contain oil, i.e. suitable as tinder. Cedars shed their leaves as they grow, by dropping branches with leaves, which makes them easy to deal with for campfires. “Collect those newly dropped ones. Leave older branches on the ground. They can cover the floor and prevent run-off of the soil when it rains again.” Certainly. Actually, this task was easy compared with dragging the logs from the mountain. I recalled a description of girls’ life 100 years ago in Kanagawa Prefecture 神奈川県, reported in “Verbatim Record: traditional meal of Kanagawa Prefecture 聞き書神奈川の食事 (1992)” There, an old lady from Atsugi 厚木 described her childhood. During autumn, she entered in a forest afterschool almost daily. It was not for play. She collected fallen leaves to provide enough tinder for her household. Their activity practically cleared the forest floor to receive enough sunshine, which was ready to have spring ephemeral. Now, no one does it, and I as a Lover of Niiharu did a tiny tidying up. I don’t think mine was a match with the jobs 6 years’ olds did 100 years ago …


Lots of tinder in a forest floor of cedars.


Even Niiharu Forest of rainy Yokohama has experiences of forest fires, it seems to me. About 15 years ago, the area had thunderstorm, and a lightening hit a cedar tree and ignited a fire. It did not spread much, and now a charcoal tree is standing near a trekking route of the Citizen Forest. I guess when we have lots of ever-green broad leaved trees with lots of rain like in Niiharu, the place is relatively resilient to forest fires. Though, they say if we do not manage forest properly, e.g. leaving dead trees and bushes too much, and neglect the place which invites mischiefs acting carelessly with fire, dry weather can bring a devastating fire. It happened for Gun’ma Prefecture 群馬県 in April 2014 ... Fire and woods are the things like two sides of a coin, at least for humans. Before the age of petrochemicals, one of the reasons Japanese treasured forests was as suppliers of fuel. Now in Yokohama, not many people enter forests to gather woods for fuel. Petros make forests like Disney Land, a place to visit if you want to have (mainly) passive fun for pastime. Forests are something people can think to live their life without it … Thanks to this, Japan does not have serious problem of BaP originating from burning woods for household usage (; the smog with PM2.5 from the neighboring continent is totally a different matter, as you can check it here). I found something unsettling here … Fuels, woods, neglected forests, improvement in air quality of a city … Cognitive dissonance?




Disclaimer: nobody is allowed to make fire in Yokohama’s forest, being it in a Citizen Forest or not, without a permission from the fire station in charge of the area. The Lovers of Niiharu Citizen Forest submit necessary papers and receive on-site checkings by officers. We also follow the direction of the authority to control the fire. In addition, members of the Lovers who live next to the forest join the sentry activities organized by neighborhood associations, and patrol Niiharu Citizen Forest in evenings. Preventing forest fire is one of the most important activities for this night watch. We try to be responsible about the relation between forest and fire in Niiharu Citizen Forest. I keep crossing my fingers Niiharu Forest will not have a serious fire incident …




If you find a problem in Niiharu Forest, please make a contact with

Office for the Park Greeneries in the North 北部公園緑地事務所
Yokohama Municipal Government Creative Environment Policy Bureau 横浜市環境創造局
Phone: 045-311-2016
FAX: 045-316-8420

Niiharu Administrative Office / Satoyama Exchange Center 新治管理事務所・里山交流センター
Phone: 045-931-4947
Fax: 045-937-0898




Friday, November 16, 2018

In search of my Charlotte’s Web: spiders!



When we walk during late summer relatively sunny trekking road in Yokohama’s parks and citizen forest, we can encounter webs of Nephila Clava. When it matured, from the “front” the bug often has long 8 legs of black and yellow stripe, and an oblong body with pale green and yellow ikat pattern. The side of its belly shows strips of crimson red. That flashy spider is “she.” She lives in a large yellowish and complicated web. Normally, her house is 3-dimensional where the center is her adobe, and supporting 2 planes sandwiches her main domain with angle. To know it is Nephila Clava, we can just check if she has striking red lines in her belly, and her elaborate web structure. In late summer, she is still relatively petit. But she grows larger and larger almost daily, and by mid-October many are at least 5cm long, or some can even reach to 8cm from its front toe to the tail toe. Also, by mid-October, she has her partner, or a group of “worshippers,” far smaller male individuals which live in her web, but never take the center. It’s like she is a superstar with several boy-groupies hovering around her. They mate while she is in her final shedding to be a matured lady, or during her meal time. Otherwise, she eats male solicitors which approached her carelessly while she was waiting for her meal to be caught by her web. Nephila Clava is called Joroh-gumo in Japanese. Standard moniker of “Joroh” is “女郎” that means a classic prostitute. But, another Chinese character for “Joroh” is “上臈” that was a job title of the highest ranking court-lady who hovered in a backstage of Japanese national politics. Both female types could be considered as “men-eaters.” (Oh, so typical dichotomy of traditional femininity in Japan …) OK, OK, OK, so we have these showy spider ladies here and there in autumn forests of Yokohama.


A Nephila Clava in Niiharu Citizen Forest.
 I found her this November on the ground.
 Maybe she’s preparing for eggs …


Boyfriend-eating Nephila Clava has her own reason of her cannibalism. She is almost blind. When a pray was caught by her web, she catches the vibration her meal makes via her silk, and moves toward it to eat. She has to eat to be big enough for laying eggs, no matter what. If a reckless male makes unnecessary move, that’s simply a signal for her food, and so “a girl eats a boy” moment. Actually, I have heard we can play with the spider by using her behavior. A web of Nephila Clava has sticky lateral threads, and non-sticking vertical silks. Please bring your tuning fork, vibrate it, and transfer the wave of “C” to a vertical thread of Joro-gumo. Surprise! She immediately responds to your calling! Well, we tried this mischief, and found if we made a sort of noise, like “Hey, Naomi, here is a web! Yeah, the vertical thread is not sticky, really (and he flipped the web),” the spiders did not respond. Come to think of it, finding a meal is a serious matter … the bug can know our joke instantaneously. Lessons learned. We approached webs quietly, vibrated the fork, and put it calmly to the vertical silk. BAM! Spiders ran so quickly to our tuning fork. Very interestingly, they turned their 8 legs within 1 or 2 seconds after feeling the trembles, and returned to their original position. Maybe, they can differentiate real shuddering their pray makes and a mechanical vibration by a tuning fork. Clever girls.


A web of a Nephila Clava, near Niiharu Citizen Forest.
 Their web is VERY large, and shining.


Webs of spiders are interesting. Take Linyphiidae family. They are tiny, but construct seemingly dense web spreading like a semi-transparent sheet over box hedge. The structure is a very flat frustum so that they are called Sara-gumo サラグモ in Japanese; “Sara = soup plate,” got it? They are waiting for their pray-bugs flying up from bushes or a gentle stream beneath. The web is made of very thin silk, and often invisible from below, which makes the home of the spider superb hunting gear. Crafty. Maybe, our ancestors watched the way spiders behave, and felt a similar wonder of mine. “They are so clever, and exotically beautiful.” Hence, some become arachnophobia … A strangely beautiful and clever thing is dangerous, being it a spider, or a human, isn’t it? Yeah, some spiders have deadly venom. Quite luckily, I have not encountered either a spider or a web that is fatally toxic for humans, at least yet.


A web of Linyphiidae


I found spiders cute. Take Jumping spiders; kawaii, although they do not make webs. They are equipped with lovely round eyes that give them a good view for their pray. … I personally found Aragog of Harry Potter is a giant version of a jumping spider … woops, no, they must be of tarantula! Jumping spiders are crawling around us, and jump to catch their pray if they find one. Carrhotus xanthogramma (Neko-haetorigumo in Japanese) of jumping spiders’ family jump to their kindred as well to fight when they find them nearby. In Yokohama and Kawasaki, when we had lots of forests like until the 1960s, it was kids’ play to find Neko-haetori, and let them fight each other in a cardboard box kids brought in a forest. The game was called “Honchi Sumo ほんち相撲.” In Niiharu Citizen Forest, when Lovers of Niiharu hold Kids’ Forest Day of Spring and Summer, we call for Honchi Sumo Tournament, provided kids can find Neko-haetori … My senior lovers said “2018 was not good for Neko-haetori. We could not find enough of them for 2018 Spring Kids’ Day ... You know, it was so easy before to find Neko-haetori anywhere in Yokohama …” Having a tournament of jumping spiders was actually a pastime of rich merchants of Edo (Tokyo) during the 18th century. It was called “Zashiki Taka 座敷鷹” (= “Falconry in a parlor”) where people let their pet jumping spiders catch flies of artificially trimmed wings. The more fries a spider caught, the stronger the spider-sumo wrestler was. The champion jumping spider was traded at exorbitant prices. I guess their cute eyes were also attractive to the wealthy business people at that time.


A scene of Honchi Sumo in 2017 Spring Niiharu Kid’s Day.
 I would say some kids are more skillful
 to find Neko-haetori than the others …

Neko-haetori in Yadoriki Water Source Forest やどりき水源林.
 It is having a breakfast.
Argiope minuta of Argiope family.
  Argiope can be found easily in all over Japan (if you look),
 next common to this week’s protagonist, Nephila Clava.
 Among the family this species is relatively less-sighted.
 It was in Yadoriki Water Source Foreset this September.
 Cute, isn’t it?


In Yokohama’s forests of mid-November, the time for spiders is almost up. Nephila Clava is having a time of blowing. Females lay eggs on the surface of trees or buildings in late autumn, and die soon after. The eggs overwinter and babies come out in spring. I always remember the final moment of Charlotte in autumn, and imagine Japanese spiders having a conversation with somebody around them, just like Wilbur and Charlotte. The spiders are tiny creatures, but would be very clever, and kind. They might bring someday a web saying “TERRIFIC!” in front of me in a forest, mightn’t they? It’s a fun to walk silently in forests of autumn dreaming such moment, even if the forest is just next to a gigantic complex of condos, like Niiharu Citizen Forest.





If you find an environmental issues in Kanagawa Prefecture, please make a contact with Kanagawa Natural Environment Conservation Center 神奈川県自然環境保全センター

657 Nanasawa, Atsugi City, 243-0121 2430121 厚木市七沢657
Phone: 046-248-0323

You can send an enquiry to them by clicking the bottom line of their homepage at http://www.pref.kanagawa.jp/div/1644/