Back to the Future, a sort of: Omine-iri 2023 in Yamakita Town 1 お峯入り 1

 

When we’ve descended from snowy top of Mt. Ohno 大野山 in 2018 (my posts on March 23 and 30, 2018), I found there was a shrine and a warehouse with an educational panel. It said “This Shinmei-sha shrine 神明社 is a place where once in 5 years festival, named Omine-iri お峯入り, is held. The warehouse is for the sacred tools of the festival.” It also had a note the latest event was held in October 2017. Wow. I put the information in my memory, and counted the next festival would be in 2022. In real 2022, Japan was still hesitating to be liberalized from COVID-19 precaution. Yamakita Town 山北町 postponed the traditional festival for 2023. Meanwhile, the event that held the designation of National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property 国指定重要無形民俗文化財 had added in November 2022 another emblem of being a part of UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. Finally in October 8th, 2023, Yamakita Town held Omine-iri after 6 years of waiting. I’ve been there. This week and the next are about my adventure for the event. It was raining, and the festival was abbreviated because of it. Even though, the experience was magical, I tell you.

The ritual has its origin in the 14th century and the village presided it for every 10 to 20 years before. The current once-in-5-years format was taken from the 1960s. Originally, the festival had a heavy involvement of Yamabushi priests 山伏 who sang and danced for a whole day several formalized program together with the villagers. The element of ancient mountain religion of Japan was very strong in the festival. So, its tradition was not written, transmitted orally from the teacher to student of the religion. Having said that, in the 21st century, rather, UNESCO endorsement was a big point for tourism promotion of the town. Previously Omine-iri was held at the top of Mt. Ohno and Shinmei-sha shrine only. This year, the town had a kind of “show” in the morning for paid audiences at the ground of their only one elementary school, Kawamura Elementary 川村小学校. The troop then moved to Mt. Ohno and began the real ritual at around 13:00. (… er, at least that was the plan. It did not go in this way. I ‘ll tell you why next week.) The performance at the Elementary was filmed and put on archive-streaming for 1000 yen until December 22, 2023 (; the ticket is sold here). As the choreography of the dance itself is interesting, it would be nice to watch performance via internet … On October 8th, rain started to fall around noon in Yamakita Town. For somebody who prefer watching the pageant on a chair without rain, paying up to 2500 yen for a seat of the show should have been a wise choice. Even though, I still recommend going to the top of Mt. Ohno and being in the same space of meditative ritual. If it had been a fine day, the march at the peak of Mt. Ohno would have been held with the entire Mt. Fuji as the background scenery. Rain or shine, the pageant itself was mesmerizing, but with Mt. Fuji it would be unbelievable. I’ve decided to return there for the next time, crossing my fingers for sunshine …

The open space of the top of Mt. Ohono,
on October 8, 2023.
Mt Fuji was supposed to be observed huge
at the 10 o’clock direction of this photo …

Anyway, I report you my itinerary for Omine-iri at Mt. Ohno 大野山 first. To begin with we have to go up to the top of Mt. Ohno. Last time we’ve been there from Yaga Station 谷峨駅 of JR Tokai Gotemba Line 御殿場線. This time, I decided to explore another route, via paved community road. We can start walking from Yamakita Station 山北駅, or take commuter bus of Fujikyu-Shonan Bus 富士急湘南バス from Odakyu Shin-Matsuda Station 小田急新松田駅 and get off at Ohno-yama Iriguchi 大野山入口 (“Entrance to Mt. Ohono”) bus stop (; time table is here). From the bus stop, walk a bit along the busy Prefectural Road #76, go through a small tunnel that run next to the #76, and divert from the busy road at another side of the tunnel to the mountain. From there, it’s about 2-2.5 hours walk. Although the road is perfectly paved, the amount of traffic is definitely smaller than for #76, especially during the weekends ... er, during weekdays, I guess the situation is very different. I tell you the reason and what I’ve found next week. Please stay tuned.

The bus stop at Odakyu Shin-Matsuda Station
 for the service to Ohono-yama Iriguchi

From Ohono-yama Iriguch bus stop,
please go through this tunnel, and

turn right at the other end of the tunnel, to this direction.

Almost immediately after entering our itinerary today,
we’ll be welcomed by this café.
Its ice cream is famous,
but the premise is open around11:00,
a bit late for hikers wanting to reach
the top of the mountain around 12:30.
Anyway, if you find this café, you’re on the track.

If you find environmental issues in Kanagawa Prefecture, please make a contact with Kanagawa Natural Environment Conservation Center 神奈川県自然環境保全センター

657 Nanasawa, Atsugi City, 243-0121
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