There was a reason why I tried to be at the top of Mt. Ohno 大野山 (ASL 722.8m) by 12:30. Last summer, the HP of Yamakita Town 山北町 said the ritual of Omine-iri 2023 お峯入り would start at 13:00 in the open space of the peak of Mt. Ohno. The show in the ground of Kawamura Elementary 川村小学校 would be concluded around 11:30, and the company could come to Mt. Ohno before 13:00 by car. At least that was a plan. Then on the real October 8th, 2023, there was a traffic accident in Tomei Express near Ohi-Matsuda IC. The cars stuck in the terrible jam came down from the toll road to Route 246 that crossed Yamakita Town. The road from the Elementary to Mt. Ohno was affected by the mess, and so we at the peak of Mt. Ohno waited the troop to arrive for nearly 2 hours. At 12:30, it was misty only, but by the time the Omine-iri Company reached Mt. Ohno, it became serious rain ...
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| When I arrived there, it was still OK ... |
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| The crew was busy for preparation ... |
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| When the busses were arriving, it was raining. |
The General Director of the Event, aka the leader of the Federation of Neighborhood Association for Yamakita Town, was already at the peak of Mt. Ohno when I arrived there at 12:30. He was frantically talking on his cell phone in a large voice. Everybody within 30m radius from him could know the situation. We waited, waited, and waited. One of our fellow hikers at the peak said, “You see? It was same 5 years ago. The ritual was planned to start at 13:00, but the company came here 13:30 or so. We just have to wait …” That was a kind of difficult part to witness the ritual. Yeah, we could plan to go there around 13:30 which would be a reasonable schedule for Omine-iri. But if there were lots of hikers and tourists congregated at the top of the mountain, the best seats to watch the ritual would be taken by somebody else … For this year I think my arrival there at 12:30 was a good maneuver. I’m not sure the same strategy could work especially when the weather is marvelous and we can admire the entire figure of Mt. Fuji from Mt. Ohno … Let me see how I can deal with the situation in 2028. One thing was sure: the wait in the rain was worthwhile.
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| Before the procession. Lots of people and TV crews. |
According to the Executive Committee for Omine-iri 2023, it took more than 6 months for them to prepare the props and costumes for the ritual. Especially colorful decorations were made of paper. It was raining on October 8th 2023. Before the start of the ritual, the general Director notified us. With rain the decorations and props won’t last for long, and so the ritual of marching in the open space for the top of Mt. Ohno was shortened and the dancing oblation at Shinmei-sha Shrine after the procession would be done only by the troops of musicians and 6 dancers with a pole. It was a bit disappointing, but then I myself was armed with a raincoat and umbrella. I think I was lucky to be at the ritual without total cancellation. The performers arrived at the top of Mt. Ohno before 14:00 in 3 buses and several accompanying cars including police cars. They descended from the vehicle, prepared the costumes et al for performance, the Director explained his plan with megaphone, and the march began.
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| Stand-by |
It was an entrancing procession of performers in multi-colored costumes. The lead of the troop was a group of tall performers wearing masks of magical creatures and traditional kimono’s. They then were followed by a company of heavy make-up in ancient wear of Yamabushi priests 山伏 and musicians. The next was dancers with a pole, large decorative rods, and kids with flowery hats (; my video for the procession can be seen here). Probably the spirit of the mountain was also pleased to have such dedication. When the march began, the rain was eased. I had a kind of flashback for a scene in the film Moliere directed by Ariane Mnouchkine. Magical and mesmerizing …
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| Going down from the peak, |
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| To the Shrine |
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| Tanzawa Mountains |
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| Please cross this gate. |
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| Pass the warehouse of the cattle farm. |
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| Sagami Bay |
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| Entering the forest |
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| The performers arrived. Already lots of audience. |
There, already more than 100 people waited for the troops moving from the top of the mountain. If you were in a small group, like, alone or with a couple of friends, I do not think you would have difficulty finding a place to watch the ritual. Though, again, it was misty or raining. So, if the weather becomes more friendly, finding a seat for watching the ritual at the shrine could be tricky. The program 2023 Omine-iri Committee chose for the offering to the Shrine was dances with red and white striped wood poles, and a procession of Divine Palanquin. The dancers softly touched the “earth” at the tip of their pole, moving their body with the music of bamboo flutes and small drums. According to the MC of the ritual, the choreography would be originated from secret ritual of Yamabushi priests, and touching of the ground was to invoke the spirit of the mountain, to tell thank you for autumn harvest, and to ask good crop for the next years to come. The dance had a feel of hypnotizing. The movement is not-fast and repetitive while dances move quietly. It’s like humans ask politely the spirit of mountain like “Er, sorry Ma’am (; in Japanese legends, spirit of mountains is “female”), do you mind giving your attention to our offering?” The procession of a portable shrine was also quiet, solemnly circle the open space. The place was surrounded by large Cryptomeria japonica, emitting purifying aroma (; my video for the ritual can be seen here).
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| Opening address by the General Director of the Event |
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| Cars for the troop and media people |
The festival concluded around 16:00. With misty rain, our road going home from the mountain shrine was already dim. Surprisingly, for about 2 hours descending without public transportation along a narrow blacktop road service, we could find several houses where apparently the owners of the property lived their quiet mountain life. When we live in such atmosphere, the silent prayer in the form of dance is very appropriate … It’s conversing with the nature. I could catch JR Gotemba Line 御殿場線 train from Yamakita Station 山北駅 at 18:48, with lots of fellow hikers back from the ritual in Shinmei-sha Shrine. It was a day of hiking, ice cream, and quiet contemplation in the forest. The occasion is offered once in 5 years. The next one will be in 2028.
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| Going home in misty rain … |
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| To the JR station |
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| Phew! Returning to Tomei Expressway |
If you find environmental issues in Kanagawa Prefecture, please make a contact with Kanagawa Natural Environment Conservation Center 神奈川県自然環境保全センター
657 Nanasawa, Atsugi City, 243-0121
〒243－0121 厚木市七沢657
Phone: 046-248-0323
You can send an enquiry to them by clicking the bottom line of their homepage at http://www.pref.kanagawa.jp/div/1644/
