Showing posts with label Maioka. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Maioka. Show all posts

Friday, February 24, 2017

Air pollution … yes, but … Complicated situation in Satoyama of Yokohama


People say the problem of Japanese forests these days often comes from the fact people do not use them as before. Tools of ordinary daily lives are made of plastic, not woods or bamboos harvested from forests. Fertilizers are chemically provided from big plants, not from the open-air composts of leaves situated at the corner of forests. Above all, people do not use trees for fuels, but gas and electricity generated by hydro-carbons or nuclear plants. It seems to me the last one could be the biggest reason why we city-rats often consider forests a derivative of Disney Land for escaping from rat race, not something closely connected to our ordinary day. Though, come to think of it, oil and coal were once plants. A community of hydro-carbon poor but in deep forests, like Japan, would naturally have turned to the original form of oil for energy. That was charcoal.

I personally feel charcoals in Bizen ware are elegant. 

I have learned that until 70 years or so ago there was a saying that “Operating a charcoal kiln won’t make your family hungry.” It was lucrative business. Some had enough forests to make it a stand-alone operation. The others moved around the forests nation-wide and asked landlords a permission to operate kilns with the logs harvested from nearby. My mom, who was born in a house within a deep forest of Shikoku, remembers every winter there were visitors to the family mountains. “They were Sumiyaki-san (炭焼きさん: Messieurs Charcoal Cookers).”

Present day charcoal for BBQ sold in a Home Center
in Yokohama

When in 1923 the Great Kanto Earthquake 関東大震災 hit Kanagawa Prefecture which was the epicenter, literally millions of trees in Tanzawa 丹沢 and Hakone 箱根 mountains fell with massive landslides that completely destroyed the communities in valleys. According to Mr. Isao Ozawa 小沢操 retired from (now defunct) Kanagawa Public Cooperation of Forestry かながわ森林づくり公社, to clean up the post-quake mess, people made charcoal from whatever the logs carried by the landslides, and sold the product widely. The kinds of trees included species that were not suitable for good charcoal, like firs. Even though, Mr. Ozawa said, “Look, before, people knew the usage of charcoal quite well. Of course, they were important source of heat for daily lives, for cooking and hibachi 火鉢, you know. Moreover, they can be deodorizer in house. If you place a piece of charcoal in a pan at the top of rice, and cook them, the cooked rice tastes great. They act as soil conditioner to make and preserve farm lands neutral or slightly alkaline. Finally they are very good filters to purify water. When the Great Earthquake hit, the rivers in Kanagawa became extremely muddy. So, people submerged tons of charcoals at the strategic locations of rivers to restore water source. The charcoal made of coniferous trees cannot retain fire long enough for BBQ, but they were good enough to sieve the water.” Wow, giant Britas in rivers. People 100 years ago really knew the value of the charcoal, and the forest.

Kin’me River 金目川 in Tanzawa.
By Great Kanto Earthquake,
this river turned into a flash flood
that annihilated a village of 15 household
around the point of this photo.

These days, people certainly understand the savory BBQ with the best quality charcoal, like Bincho charcoal 備長炭. But to purify water, we visit shopping centers to purchase mechanical tools for faucet … Oh, by the way, in Yokohama, we don’t need such things for tap water. Ours is one of the bests in Japan, with historical reason. I’ll tell you our story when we visit the forest of Doshi Village 道志村 in Yamanashi Prefecture 山梨県. ;-) Anyway, we now have hard times to find the way for charcoal usage in our ordinary lives. True, nowadays people become more conscious for organic gardening and allotment so that it is easy to find charcoal-based product in garden centers … e.g. Charcoal itself is for soil conditioner. Wood vinegar, the by-product of charcoal making, is now sold as 100% organic pesticides, although Japanese Pesticide Act 農薬取締法 prohibits the sales of wood vinegar as scientifically proven pesticides. The usage as deodorizer is well-known. It’s now easy to find in drug stores commercial deodorizer made of charcoal. I guess they are made from some industrial process, which would be different from traditional charcoal making in Japanese forests. Some say they are made of tropical mangrove intended to use for fuel, not for the other usage … Global deforestation … So, for people in Yokohama, charcoal is not something produced nearby, but should be found in Home Centers. That has posed a problem to maintain Satoyama tradition in Megalopolis Tokyo area. 

For present-day usage of charcoal in Japan.
It’s for flower pots.
Wood vinegars found in a Home Center.
It’s for room deodorant cum dehumidifying agent.
Room deodorants for dog-lovers
also have a layer of charcoal.

About 30 or so years ago, when the City Offices or the Prefectural Governments found large enough greenery to be public parks in the middle of residential area, they often designed the place to “preserve traditional way of life where people and nature live harmoniously,” i.e. to recreate Satoyama. Charcoal making was one of the important parts of the concept. Consequently, in Metropolitan Tokyo area we can find charcoal kilns in large parks with an affix “Satoyama.” (One example in the City of Kawasaki is here.) In Yokohama’s Citizen Forests, I have met kilns in Maioka Forest 舞岡, Araizawa Forest 荒井沢, Yokohama Nature Sanctuary 横浜自然観察の森, and Niiharu. Although they are not in the Citizen Forest family, Hongo Fujiyama Park 本郷ふじやま公園 near Segami Forest 瀬上 and Shikinomori Park 県立四季の森公園 have kilns. Out of these, I guess, currently operational kilns are just two: in the Nature Sanctuary and Niiharu. The rest are broken? Definite NO. They cannot operate because the neighborhood complained.

Charcoal kiln in Koyato-no-Sato of Maioka
Charcoal kiln in Araizawa
Charcoal kiln in Nature Sanctuary …
hmmmmm looking back, every kiln is different.

Unlike microwaving, charcoal cooking takes time. For the best quality Binchotan Charcoal, for about two weeks the pros burn the firewood under their kiln containing logs of Quercus phillyraeoides. Even for the high-tech kiln in Araizawa Citizen Forest where the amateurs operate, the process takes 8 hours. During the process, the system spews smokes. Unless your facility locates in the middle of the forest removed far far far from a nearby condo, with an ideal air flow that makes difficult for the emission to waft over the gardens of neatly lined houses, residents shall complain. So it happened in Shikinomori Park. Although their homepage boasts a charcoal kiln as one of the facilities to transfer the traditional Satoyama knowledge, the volunteer group to operate the kiln was dismantled several years ago. Against their activities, fierce complaints came from the neighborhood associations of huge Hikarigaoka Housing Complex spreading in the north of the Park. Before, the admin office of Shikinomori Park proudly showed the charcoal cooked in the kiln within the park. Now, there is nothing to display … I don’t know I can describe it “sad.” I now know how smoky it is to make charcoal. I have joined Charcoal Making Club of Niiharu Lovers. The activity itself was quite a fun. I loved it. But, if you live nearby without any prospect to receive positive utility from our activity, the all-day-long smoke would let you call the police. Probably, it is one of the examples to nurture culture of the forest within our 21st century society where it is difficult for us to have first-hand experience of the joy with the nature. … Next week, I tell you the excitement I am having with 2 rickety charcoal kilns in Niiharu. You doubt if cold forests in front of smoky kilns from 6:00 in the morning is really enjoyable. I tell you, it was. I think if kids can have an opportunity to do this, they may find a pleasure of engineering with a help of forests ...

Charcoal made of Niiharu is available at the Visitor Center!

If you find a problem in Yokohama’s Forest, please make a contact with

Office for the administration of Park Greeneries 公園緑地管理課
Yokohama Municipal Government Creative Environment Policy Bureau 横浜市環境創造局
Phone: 045-671-2648 (I guess in Japanese only)


Friday, November 13, 2015

Bacon, Cabbage, Action! Maioka Our Country Home 舞岡ふるさと村


City of Yokohama has two Our Country Home (Furusato-mura ふるさと村) forests. One is Jike Forest situated right next to Tokyo. Another is Maioka Forest which joined Citizen Forest Family in 2002. Unlike Jike Forest that became Citizen Forest in 1982, Maioka is a relatively new Citizen Forest. It could be handy to remember this fact when we think why these two Our Country Home Forests are different. It also shows us the changes in thinking about natural environment in our City of Yokohama. Very interesting.



Access to Maioka Our Country Home is the easiest for Citizen Forest. We just take Yokohama City Subway Blue Line to Maioka Station. Leave the station from the South Exit, and let’s turn to the south at the top of the stairs coming out from the underground. In front of us is Maioka Our Country Home, and the forest on the right is Citizen Forest and continuing Maioka Park. (舞岡公園 Maioka Park has a small car parking at the southern tip which is always full.) The community contains 55 farming families in 103 ha.  i.e. The area consists of small farming families. Even though, basically Maioka has been an area famous of its vibrant agriculture for ages in Yokohama. The soil is almost at the edge of fertile Tama hills. The farmers accumulated the knowledge of land-husbandry for small to medium sized agricultural business. Before they became Our Country Home, they produced at least 30 vegetables in their small plots and catered Yokohama urbanites who demanded variety of vegetables at reasonable prices. Now the community produces at least 170 varieties of vegetables, rice, and pork. They sell their products under “Maioka” brand in stores in Yokohama.

Maioka Station South Exit
At the exit of Subway Station, they have this large map.
After rice harvesting, right next to the subway station

And so, the area is a kind of 21st Century version of Japanese Satoyama. The environment of Maioka is majority under human intervention, but in a particularly symbiotic way. 19.5 ha of Citizen Forest has the controlled trees and undergrowth in order to maintain water source for small scale farms, providing a diverse ecosystem. People try to maintain the area at Goldilocks Zone good for biodiversity and agriculture. The food production is based on a traditional crop routine, but aggressively incorporating new trends of consumer demand. They sell Koshihikari rice for sushi, and give us beautiful kohlrabis that would be gorgeous appetizer for European style Christmas dinner. Unlike Jike where the emphasis is more on tourism, Maioka is more for small-scale agricultural production.


Next to the Maioka subway exit, there are two shops, official storefronts for MaiokaOur Country Home where we can purchase Maioka products. One is Maioka-ya 舞岡や where they sell very fresh vegetables, rice, and horticultural plants such as pot flowers, supplied by farmers in Maioka. (Open 7:30-12:00 for weekdays, 7:30-14:00 for weekends and holidays. Closed for Tuesday.) Another is Maioka Ham Workshop (Maioka Ham Kohboh 舞岡ハム工房; Open 9:30-16:00, Closed for Tuesday.) where they sell artisanal bacon, ham, sausages, and pork made in Maioka. (Damned WHO!) As their product is indeed handmade, they are not cheap (e.g. 200g of bacon costs about 1000 yen), but DELICIOUS. Maioka Ham Workshop also has some vegetables, pasta, and others including bento lunch boxes at reasonable price (like 500 yen for plat-du-jour lunch box). It is an ideal place to procure your lunch in Maioka Forest.

Flagship shops for Maioka, seen from Subway exit
Maioka-ya sells rice made in Maioka.
The community also markets their pickles
(tsukemono) home-made with Maioka vegetables.
Next to Maioka-ya,
they have spacious toilets for visitors:
all the structure of Maioka-ya is built
by national agricultural subsidy from
the Ministry of Agriculture, Fishery and Forestry
… wow.
Maioka Ham Kohboh
Ham Kohboh sells not only processed meat,
but also pork itself.
By the way, their marinated pork is mouth-watering.

The route within Maioka Forest is a network of community roads for farming families to use. (Map, here.) Many of them are wide enough, if not paved, for a small tractor to reach to a field within the Forest. We stroll within the Forest, and suddenly find a small orchard of persimmon trees, or a cabbage patch. There are several allotments for amateurs lucky enough to win the city lottery to use the land there. One of the missions for Maioka Our Country Home is disseminating the hands-on knowledge of food production among city dwellers of Yokohama. … Do you know, these days, some moms in Japan submit a petition to head teachers of elementary schools not to show photographs of butterflies in classrooms? The reason: they think the photos of insects are “creepy, and so, not good for educating our urban kids.” WHAT are they thinking!? … Maioka allotments have really a serious goal.

The road leading to inside of the Forest.
On the right is allotment for amateurs.
It would be difficult for tractors here …
but thinking the Citizen Forest standard …
All the notices in Maioka Forest are
by Agricultural Office of the City,
not by the Office for the Park.
Picnic tables within the Forest
and in front of the table has this notice board
by the Ministry saying
the road around here is constructed
by national subsidy for agriculture.
Hence, it is wide enough ...
to bring us to a small farm within the Forest,
and to an orchard (on the left).
Right next to the Forest to the west is
ordinary residential area which was
before one of the largest factories of Bridgestone.

Very intriguingly, Maioka Forest connects to 28.5 ha of Maioka Park, established in December 1992. The Park has 5 restricted areas that prohibit the human access, in order to maintain biota of the area. The Park also has gates to shut-off pets to enter. The road within Maioka Park is more of the trekking roads of other Citizen Forests. It is a kind of role reversal. The original intention of Citizen Forest is more emphasis on nature conservation, and many areas within the Forests are off-limit for visitors. (Do you remember Kashiwa-cho Forest? Its ¾ is off-limits for visitors.) On the other hand, urban parks in Japan are under the jurisdiction of Urban Park Act that requires in general the facilities for citizens of free-entry. In Maioka, the roles of Citizen Forest and the Park are in the other way round.

Between the Citizen Forest and the Park,
there is a small paved road.
Then, the road dives into the Forest.
Within Maioka Park


The ridgeway of Maioka Park has
several open places with a view.
Many people are spending their autumn
in the Park reading.
By the way, next to Maioka Park is
Yokohama Campus of Meijigakuin University
明治学院大学.
One of the gates in Maioka Park
In general,
the toilets for Maioka Park are clean and spacious.
Many have booths for western toilet.

Within Maioka Park, there is an old farm house, Koyato-no-sato 小谷戸の里, surrounded by small ponds and rice paddies. It is now used as a community house for volunteers of Maioka Park. (Phone: 045-824-0107.) The place also has a small museum with artefacts of satoyama life in yesteryears. There, we can know about 130 years ago there was a girl who studied in Maioka Elementary, and received a certificate of her attendance of the study. The place hosts very popular annual Harvest Festival on November 23rd. (This year, from 9:50-about 13:00.) They sell mochi, rice balls, vegetable soup …, made of bounties from Maioka at nominal price. This year, from 12:30 there is a ceremony for 2015 Champion of Maioka Scarecrow Competition. (The champion is decided by vote of visitors to Maioka Park.) Koyato-no-sato itself snuggly nestles in the forest of Maioka. I envy that girl who lived there years ago …

One of this year’s competitors
er, well,
the artist for this scarecrow says it is tofu.
Enemy of moms
Koyato-no-sato

The rice paddies and ponds around Koyato-no-sato is a source for Maioka River that eventually joins Katase River (via Kashio River) pouring in to the Pacific Ocean at Fujisawa City. Maioka Citizen Forest and Maioka Park is spreading along the Maioka River. About 300 m from Maioka Subway Station along Maioka River, there is Niji-no-Ie (虹の家 Rainbow House, Open 9:00-17:00) that is an information center cum community gathering place for Maioka Our Country Home. It seems to me they have many cooking lessons using bounties of Maioka throughout the year (e.g. “Let’s make Sausages!” Welcome Sir Winston.) You can first start your visit from there and dive into the forest. Their seasonal maps of Maioka (Link here for Spring, Summer, Fall, and Winter) are cute. They also have a small museum explaining the area. I was shocked to see an exhibition of two georamas. One is constructed based on the data of the 19th century.  Another is of the 1980s. Once Maioka area was of agricultural villages. After 100 years or so, the hills and forests surrounding the present-day Maioka Our Country Home were bulldozed to be the huge factories of Hitachi and Bridgestone. At least Bridgestone is gone in the 21st Century, and Hitachi factory is now company’s research center. Vicissitudes …


A stroll along Maioka River
Niji-no-Ie

If you find a problem in the Forest, please make a contact with

Office for the Park Greeneries in the South 南部公園緑地事務所
Yokohama Municipal Government Creative Environment Policy Bureau 横浜市環境創造局
Phone: 045-831-8484 (I guess in Japanese only)

FAX: 045-831-9389 (I hope there is somebody who can read English …)