A Wild Water Chase around Mt. Takao and Lake Sagami 高尾山と相模湖

Kanagawa Prefecture normally does not have draught during summer. Our water supply from Sagami River System 相模川水系 and Sakawa River System 酒匂川水系 has quite adequate reservefor our use. In contrast, Tokyo often has July-August headlines like “Because of water shortage, Tokyo Metropolitan Government has started water intake restriction.” Granted, they have much larger population than Kanagawa. But, unlike Kanagawa where 100% of our water has its source within our prefecture, Tokyo relies heavily on water coming from the other prefectures. They can collect only 20% of water of their use within its border, i.e. from Tama River System 多摩川水系. The remaining 80% comes from Tone River 利根川水系, via long aqueducts coming from the north of Kanto Region 関東地方. For one thing, it would be because the land, Musashino Plateau 武蔵野台地, is flatter in Tokyo than in mountainous Kanagawa so that having large dams near the population center is not plausible. Another, Tokyo’s water problem may be due to a mischief of history which produced the largest Yokohama’s (Citizen) Forest in the late 19^th century … I’ll return to it in my later posts. Anyway! I’ve found a chronological table in the museum of Samukawa Water Intake Facility 神奈川県水道記念館 reporting in 1926 Tokyo began to ask Kanagawa and tried several times since to accommodate them with water. So far, none successful. Oh, yeah, we are very prudent, or stingy; take your side, please.

Here. A chronological Table at the museum.

Then, one day, I’ve heard a story from my seniors of the Lovers of Niiharu Citizen Forest 新治市民の森愛護会. Dr. Toshiko Kitagawa 北川淑子 of Yokohama Botanical Association 横浜植物会 lamented a possible decline in the Niiharu’s forest of ferns. “Well, the city cut the trees stood on the ridgeway separating the residential area and the forest, which has made easy for dry winds coming into the forest. It’s not at all good for ferns!” The seniors of Niiharu Lovers had a different theory. “Hey, do you remember Mr. H tried to create a biotope in the lower valley just next to the forest of ferns?” “Yeah, but he could not manage it. He expected water would seep into his pond, but it did not occur.” “Then, we noticed small natural ponds that were there at the end of the fern forest started to dry up.” “Yes, yes. That was a way before the City thinned the trees surrounding the forest of ferns.” “I suspect the 1980s’ housing development of Kirigaoka 霧が丘 in the other side of the ridge caused the fundamental problem.” “Meaning?” “They replaced a forest with the row of houses that made the ability of water retention diminished for the entire mountain.” “Ah-ha.” “So the level of underground water beneath the forest of ferns went down. It made the ponds at the end of the forest dry, and the newly created biotope of Mr. H could not collect water.” “Yeah, thinning by the City would not have much impact for the flow of winds … the houses are acting almost as the thinned trees for that matter, aren’t they?” So, you’d ask “So What? How does this theory connect with the relationship between Tokyo and Kanagawa?” That’s the thing I noticed recently when I’ve visited Mt. Takao 高尾山. This week and the next are about my adventure in the hiking road from Mt. Takao to Lake Sagami 相模湖.

Can this forest of ferns in Niiharu survive in the future?

Both Mt. Takao 高尾山 and Lake Sagami 相模湖 are well-known weekend destinations, within one-hour train ride from JR Tokyo Station 東京駅. Overlooking Lake Sagami, there is an amusement park, Pleasure Forest プレジャー・フォレスト, where we can enjoy German-style forest athletic facilities and winter-illumination for roller coaster, et al. The area has lots of camping sites, boating facilities, and fishing spots. The surrounding mountains, though less than ASL 1000m, are popular as a day-hike destination from Tokyo. One of these mountains is Mt. Takao that is the smallest Quasi-national Park in Japan, called Meiji Forest Takao Quasi-national Park 明治の森高尾国定公園. The place was awarded 3 stars by Michelin Green Guide thanks to a very-Japanese tourist trash controlling system and well-constructed hiking roads. Well, the area now is as such, but before the place was a thriving agricultural community along Koshu Highway 甲州街道 (the current National Route 20) connecting Nihonbashi 日本橋 (the place now Bank of Japan stands) and Lake Suwa 諏訪湖 in Nagano Prefecture 長野県. During the 1930s when Japan took expansionary policy for everything like a frog of Aesop’s Fables, the needs for more water and electricity grew rapidly to sustain heavy industries for armament and labors arriving for the factories in Yokohama-Kawasaki 京浜工業地帯. In 1938, the Prefectural Council of Kanagawa decided to secure large water reservoir along Sagami River 相模川 near the border with Yamanashi Prefecture 山梨県. They started the construction of a multi-purpose dam in 1940. Amazingly, despite of devastating continuation of World War II, people continued their work, and Sagami Dam 相模ダム was completed in 1947. Lake Sagami was the first man-made water reservoir in Japan, awarded a name “Lake.” Those communities along the Sagami River were massively relocated to higher grounds especially along Koshu Highway, which are now the tourism towns surrounding the Lake. After these 70 years, Sagami Dam is still a working multipurpose dam providing electricity to the neighborhood and sending water to all over Kanagawa Prefecture, including Yokohama.

Sagami dam with a working power plant

Lake Sagami

Along the lake shore, there are lots of monuments
commemorating the flooded village structures.
This boulder was once situated on a riverside
and worshipped as a holy spot.
People saved it from the submersion.

Hmmmmm, so, Lake Sagami is collecting water from the surrounding mountains. It could be a contentious issue whether Mt. Takao, whose address is “Takao-cho, Hachioji City, Tokyo, 193-8686,” plays any part as a water source forest for Kanagawa. Between the border with Kanagawa and the peak of Mt. Takao, there are three water-running valleys, which means Mt. Takao is obviously not a watershed for Kanagawa Prefecture. Even though, Mt. Takao has recorded 1300 species of vegetation in 7.7 km² (FYI, the entire UK has max 1600 kinds of plants), sitting on a famously affluent underground water system. If it’s gone for, say, housing development like the north-slope for Niiharu’s forest of ferns, could we in Yokohama still enjoy abundant water supply from Lake Sagami? For these 10 years, the construction of Takao-san Tunnel 高尾山トンネル for Kenoh-do Highway 圏央道 and Michelin Awards accelerated development of both underground and surface of Mt. Takao. Some civil society organizations, such as Japan Civil Network for the UN Decades on Biodiversity 国連生物多様性の10年市民ネットワーク, sound alarm for possible deterioration of the area as the water source. If Niiharu can be any guide, we may have to wait for at least 30 years before the results of these construction activities appear in Mt. Takao or to Lake Sagami ... One thing was certain for me: when I’ve visited Mt. Takao and came down to Lake Sagami recently, the continuation of nature did not matter if the water stored by the forests would pour, or not, in Lake Sagami. While the torrents we overlooked from the trekking roads in my itinerary were always amazingly transparent, local Tokyonites are noticing some of these water spots are getting thinner, or disappearing altogether … What could happen for the plants in the forests in the future, then? Let me tell you next week my actual adventure in the border line water source forests from Mt. Takao to Lake Sagami.

The stream near Myo-on Bashi Bridge 妙音橋 on the eastern slope of Mt. Takao

The contact address for the office in charge of Meiji Forest Takao Quasi-national Park 明治の森高尾国定公園 is

Bureau of Environment, Tokyo Metropolitan Government 東京都環境局

2-8-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo, 163-8001

Phone:  03-5388-3539, FAX:  03-5388-1379

S0000618@section.metro.tokyo.jp

The contact address for the office in charge of Sagami Dam is

Enterprise Bureau, Kanagawa Prefectural Government 神奈川県企業局

1045 Nihon-Odori, Naka-ku, Yokohama 231-8588

Phone: 210-1111

https://shinsei.e-kanagawa.lg.jp/kanagawa/uketsuke/dform.do?acs=SF3204

Water, water, everywhere … in Kanagawa Prefecture

Before visiting water source forests of Kanagawa Prefecture, let me tell you how the supply coordination goes for our community’s potable water. Very roughly speaking, we have 2 kinds of water utility corporations. One is Kanagawa Water Supply Authority 神奈川県内広域水道企業団 who supplies water for 93% of us in Kanagawa. Another is smaller water authorities that provide water mainly from local underground water and springs to the mountainous west of the prefecture, and the city of Odawara. These two entities cover 99.9% of the population. Historically speaking, the area for Kanagawa Water Supply Authority includes the City of Yokohama where the oldest modern water supply network was established in Japan. (More to Yokohama’s system in my later post.) Yokohama has the second largest population in Japan, and composes the megalopolis Tokyo area together with the cities of Kawasaki and Sagamihara.  All the 3 cities are covered by the Authority.

The municipalities and water supply in Kanagawa Prefecture

When Japan had a go-go economic growth, the population growth in those cities and the rest of the eastern Kanagawa was very fast. It was a serious problem for the prefecture 50 years ago how to secure large enough water supply for rapidly growing cities. Between 1961 and 1966, the prefectural government of Kanagawa, cities of Yokohama, Kawasaki, and Yokosuka built Shiroyama Dam 城山ダム in the north of Shiroyama 城山 (that’s the place we visited in my post on October 20^th). It created Tsukui Lake 津久井湖 providing water and electricity to the east of the prefecture. Though, it was not enough. In 1969, the local offices decided to have one entity for permanently pooling the public fund to build and maintain larger water supply system covering 2/3 of Kanagawa. The Kanagawa Water Supply Authority was born.  With this money, in 1978 they completed the construction of Miho Dam 三保ダム surrounded by deep West Tanzawa Mountains 西丹沢, and in 2000 Miyagase Dam 宮ケ瀬ダム in the north of Mt. Oyama 大山. Kanagawa has 2416 km² occupying only 0.64% of Japanese land, where 74.9% of us live in a megalopolis Tokyo. Nonetheless, regarding water sources, we have 4 large dams surrounded by deep mountain forests (; that is, the aforementioned 3 dams and Sagami Dam 相模ダム to which I return in my later post). In contrast, Tokyo of 2191 km² has only 1 dam, Ogouchi Dam 小河内ダム, as water sources within their domain. We in Kanagawa seldom have water shortage. Tokyo had drought alert this summer, an annual event. Projecting decreasing population for decades to come, water management of Kanagawa is sitting pretty these days.

Shiroyama Dam.
We can visit this structure in 5 minutes’ walk
from Tsukuiko Shiroyama Park 神奈川県立津久井城山公園we visited 2 weeks ago.

Tsukui Lake created by Shiroyama Dam.
It’s one of the water reservoirs for Kanagawa Prefecture.
Could you see a peak with a tower?
It’s on the border between Kanagawa and Tokyo.
Mt. Takao 高尾山 is beyond that point.

Miyagase Lake created by Miyagase Dam

On the north shore of Miyagase Lake,
there is a picnic park.
The view of the lake from the park’s rambling promenade
is refreshing for sure.
Driving or biking is a popular option to go there,
but there also is a commuter bus service, Hashi-07 橋07,
by Kanachu Bus from the north exit of JR/Keio Hashimoto Station.
The destination is the terminal stop for the service
at Toriihara-Fureai-no-Ie 鳥居原ふれあいの館.
(Time table, here.)

The park has a farmers’ market where we can find fresh produce
daily harvested in the mountainous northern Kanagawa.
Lunch and craft souvenirs are available as well.

According to Dr. Keiko Izumi 泉圭子 of Iwate Prefectural University, Tokyo and Yokohama have a similar modern history for the development of water source. Even though, as early as 1926, Tokyo started to request sharing water with Kanagawa. No attempt by Tokyo has succeeded so far. Granted, Tokyo has a larger population in a smaller domain than we. Though, at least we have not had a governor as Mr. Ishihara who ordered to “annihilate all the coniferous trees in Tokyo to reduce hay fever problem.” I think we are paying at least the minimum dues in taxes and water tariffs to build and maintain dams and water source forests. It’s essential nurturing forests that can store rain water and release it naturally to rivers. Dams are a sort of the final step to maintain water reservoir, not the beginning. The other day, we Kanagawa forest instructor trainees had a seminar with Mr. Masashi Chokki 一寸木将資 of West Sagami Forestry Ltd. （有）西さがみ森林. His company undertakes works from the prefectural government for the forests in Odawara and Hakone area. He said “It’s a kind of occupational habit … whenever we have TV footage of floods, I cannot stop checking the form of trees floating in muddy streams. Are they processed logs probably stored in a lumberyard deep in the mountain? If so, it could be a sign they cut trees rather too much. Or, are they large trees uprooted? It would suggest the upstream mountain has been neglected for a long time … not sufficient undergrowth was there to prevent the massive landslides. In contrast, don’t you think we in Kanagawa so far have been spared from the disaster recently? I think we are doing our best for protecting our forest for water.” I agree.

The main watershed and water facilities in Kanagawa Prefecture

At Samukawa Water Intake Facility,
there is a small museum explaining
water distribution system of Kanagawa Prefecture.
They have a very interesting chronological table
listing requests from Tokyo for water to Kanagawa.
Hmmmmmmmmm …

Samukawa Water Intake Facility on Sagami River.
The water collected here is distributed
to the east of the prefecture, including Yokohama.
We can see water-source mountains of Tanzawa over there.

A Forest of Growing of Kanagawa Prefecture
where no-pollen cedars were planted 5 years ago.
This summer, we completed a final mowing
for baby coniferous trees.
Now they are tall enough and
have no threat of shadows cast by undergrowth.
They should be able to have lots of sunshine
to get bigger by themselves.
To reach to this stage,
forest volunteers of Kanagawa
have invested lots of man-power, and money
(; could you see at the bottom a protection mesh against deer?).
Here, the prefecture is planning
to create a “Forest of Centuries.”
In 400 years’ time this place may have
gigantic cedars with diversified lower trees
and underbrush
where lots of water is reserved for Sakawa River.

Er, well, I am not deserved for this self-congratulation at all, actually. Telling you the truth, before starting the forest instructor training, I did not recognize how deeply water supply of my home prefecture interconnects many forests. I was like, “Well, Yokohama hasn’t received any water from Western Tanzawa, have we? Then, taking care of forests near Miho Dam does not have much everyday meaning for our life!” WRONG. The water of Miho Dam is certainly used for Odawara, but thirsty Yokohama is daily receiving water from there too. The Authority pumps up water using lots of fossil fuel at Iizumi Water Intake Facility (ASL12m; we can see the facility from windows of Shinkansen bullet train just before Odawara Station) and sends it to Kosuzume Water Treatment Plant (ASL 58m) in the south of Yokohama, some 43km north. The prefecture has a huge aqueduct running from Odawara to Sagamihara with a diversion to the east, i.e. Yokohama, starting near Mt. Oyama. Maintaining good forests now in Hakone will pay dividends for Yokohama’s water bill in future. By the same token, it is not at all useless remembering the water levels of all 4 dams far from the downtown Yokohama. (We can check real-time water levels of all 4 dams here.) Each municipality in Kanagawa Prefecture has a complicated system of water pipes where computerized systems watches and predicts water flows 24/7. If a community would have a surge of water demand, the system adjusts the entire distribution, including the discharge from dams, in order to halt water outage as much as possible. (That’s why water outage occurs here when we have electricity outage. No-power means no-computer working.) So, taking care of the condition of all the dams and water source forests in Kanagawa has a very practical sense for people living in Yokohama.

This summer,
Lake Miyagase has experienced very low water level
due to erratic patterns of rain.
Even though, the prefecture did not have water problem.
When Miyagase has shortage,
2 underground aqueducts from another tributary of Sagami River,
i.e. Doshi River 道志川 (more to this very important river in my later post),
divert the water directly to Miyagase.

These days, I do not care much whether water stored underground in a particular forest could end up at my faucet. Even man-made water system can have such a complicated connection. No one knows how natural water moves beneath the thick leaf-litter of rich forest. Besides, for water of Kanagawa Prefecture, the ultimate source is Mt. Fuji. Sagami River originates from Oshino-Hakkai 忍野八海. Sakawa River starts from the east of Mt. Fuji. Between there and my bathroom, there are lots of forests. In deep mountains, I really felt it nonsense to identify the water source for particular me, this tiny creature. It’s much more fun to thank God for pure water from beautiful Mt. Fuji 24/7. It would be a privilege on earth where many people face serious disputes for scarce water … Any way, let’s visit water source forests in Kanagawa from next week!

Kanagawa Water Source Authority

1194 Yasashi-cho, Asahi-ku, Yokohama, 241-8525

Phone: 045-363-1111